Brighton & The South Downs.

When you live somewhere you just assume that everyone knows where the more obvious spots are but it occurred to me on a walk recently that, like when I went to Dartmoor and couldn’t find a decent overview, visitors to the area just need knowledge from a local about some super spots to go.

This list is far from exhaustive of the places you could go near Brighton but these are some wonderful places you can catch epic views, eat some good food and keep you well entertained for a good few days plus.

I will do a more detailed Brighton City guide at some point but for now this one is focused on those who want to visit the area, pop into the city a day or two and also explore the surrounding South Downs.

Brighton itself is an incredible city - very busy as Brighton & Hove is compacted into a fairly small area. Brighton is an incredibly vibrant and creative city so I definitely recommend spending some time in the centre - weekends tend to be incredibly busy. I would say a Friday is a perfect time to experience the city.

Brighton became a very fashionable destination during the Georgian era when Prince Regent encouraged visitors to what was then a town. He went on to construct the Royal Pavilion (so worth a visit) and the Regency buildings that Brighton is so known for were constructed during this time.

Brighton continued to enjoy popularity and became a city in 2000 when it joined Hove to form the city of Brighton & Hove.

While Brighton is an incredibly enjoyable place to be, the offerings on the outskirts of the city shouldn't be overlooked. In a small radius there is so much beauty to be enjoyed and the South Downs is home to some incredible English wine makers. The food producers are passionate and the South Downs offer epic views just 15 minutes outside of the city.

Brighton (& Hove)

As mentioned, I’ll do a more comprehensive guide to the city at some point - there’s a lot to cover! I’m taking the stance of a day trip or two for this post.

Brighton is renowned for it’s expensive and tricky parking so I recommend parking at the Marina and walking in (20-30 mins) or the less extortionate car park is London Road.

The most famous thing about Brighton is perhaps the two shopping areas - the Lanes and the North Laine. Not to be confused for one area as the Lanes sit south to North St (busy bus route) and the North Laine sits on the opposite side. Both areas are packed with shops to explore, good coffee and cake.

For clothes I highly recommend NOLA and for interiors try Kensington Gardens.

For food Cin Cin has something a little special, Fatto a Mano for epic sourdough pizza, The Chilli Pickle to feed hungry appetites in the most flavoursome way and The Flour Pot for lunch and pastries.

To really feel like a local head on up to Seven Dials. Located just north of the station this area is where a local can be seen going about their errands, grabbing coffee, meeting friends.. and so on. In Spring and summer take a wander round St Annes Wells Gardens - a little slice of park life in the centre of the city.

In the colder months don’t miss Brighton’s most magical show. Just before sunset the synchronised in flight dance of the starlings is a sight you won’t forget. Take a flask of tea or hot toddy down to either pier and enjoy. Also, any time of year, check out the tide times to take a stroll along the beach on the sand that is hidden by the water in high tide among a haze of BBQ smoke (or other smoke!).

Other musts are the Royal Pavilion, The Buddhist Centre for meditation and Shelter Hall for market style eats and treats.

The Chattri

Should you venture up to the Chattri for sunrise you’ll find yourself quite moved by the stillness at this important memorial. The Chattri (Chattri means umbrella in Hindu, Punjabi and Urdu) is a structure dedicated to the Indians who died in the First World War and is sited 500 feet above the city accessible only by foot.

The Indian soldiers were treated at the Dome in Brighton which was acting as a hospital at the time and the deceased soldiers were bought to the South Downs for cremation. The Chattri was build in 1921 at the site of the cremations where it stands today.

Park in Patcham at the lay-by for the roundabout where traffic can join the A23. The walk there and back will take around an hour.

Ditchling Beacon

A favourite of mine - I like to do a walk and then spend some time in the van on the National Trust car park reading or writing. Ditchling Beacon will provide you with epic views even before you’ve stepped out of your vehicle. Ditchling Beacon gets it’s name from the beacon that used to stand on the site to warn of invasion. The point is 248 metres above sea level and gives 360 views over to Brighton, Sussex and north across the Weild. If you are a cyclist you can grab a Brighton bike from central Brighton and huff and puff up from Fiveways and along Ditchling Road until you are rewarded for your efforts. There are a variety of walks you can do from here, just follow your nose.

The Bull (Ditchling)

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat and stay The Bull is your place. Located in the village of Ditchling (having taken a steep winding road down from Ditchling Beacon) The Bull is a proper country pub and the rooms are joyous - down to earth but with a luxurious feel. In the summer there is an epic beer garden and The Bull are always raising the bar with their menu (not that it needed raising). If you’re just visiting the pub enjoy this delightful boozer where the locals will embroil you in conversation and the bar will furnish you with the best local drinks offerings and some epic bar snacks.

Lewes

This delightful market town has much to offer with gorgeous shops, views from the high street, large flea markets to pick round and some great cafes. Walk from Brighton picking the route up from the racecourse (a few hours), hop on a no.27 bus (30 mins) or grab a train (15 mins). Parking charges are fair in Lewes but the car parks and the roads to them can get congested.

My favourite shop in the whole world is From Victoria, I love the Flint Owl bakery for a bustling bite to eat and a great coffee and I highly recommend a walk to the West of town for some incredible grub at The Pelham Arms. What used to be their in-house brewery Abyss is on offer on the taps.

If you want some relaxed evening plans The Depot is your destination - this lovely community funded cinema is a lovely place to hang out with great films, comfy seats and locally produced drinks to sip while you take in a great film. A lot of pride and love goes into the restaurant and their commitment to a circular economy is the icing on the cake.

There are many walks to be taken from Lewes - some I’ve documented on the blog.

Devil’s Dyke

Another spot with views and walks in abundance from the car park is Devil’s Dyke. Folklore suggests that this spot got its name because it was thought in an act of revenge the devil dug out the 100m deep V-shaped valley so it would fill with water and drown the inhabitants of the South Downs. It was actually formed in the ice age when large amounts of water from melted ice ran down from the top of the Downs.

The Dyke looks very different to what it did in the Victorian era - during this time a railway between Hove and where the car park is now existed to cart hoards of visitors to the spot. There was a fairground, a bandstand and a camera obscura and on Whit Monday in 1893 over 30,000 visitors made their way to Devil’s Dyke. There are traces of this history if you look carefully.

The Jolly Sportsman

This pub has my favourite beer garden in a pub ever - there’s a network of walks nearby around Plumpton and East Chiltington as well an incredibly old church. after exploring you can head to the spit and sawdust style bar, order some food and drink and head to the garden. The food is worth every penny and the space and air is just perfect for a warm afternoon. You’ll love The Jolly Sportsman.

Sheffield Park & The Bluebell Railway

This is taking you out of Brighton by about a half an hour drive but is so worth it. The National Trust grounds are so worth a visit and you can do the riverside walk along the Ouse to go and check out the Bluebell Railway. But the star of the show for me is the oddities stroke garden centre run by a green fingered character who will take great pride in finding and dusting off a bottle of vino to your taste in his wine cellar (cash only so make sure you’re prepared). Find him by taking the first left as you enter the main driveway to Sheffield Park. Nearby is the incredible Sheffield Forest and my favourite woodland cabin.

Stanmer Park

Stanmer Park Estate offers so much. On the surface is a beautiful, expansive park that you can drive through with tea rooms at the other end. Under the surface is a network of woodland walks, hills to ramble, views to be had and a thriving ecotherapy centre. This is also the home to Stanmer Organics and the Earthship - a building made out of car tyres and other recycled waste. If sustainability, wellbeing and permaculture is your thing Stanmer is the place to be.

Firle Beacon and Firle village

Firle Beacon is known among van owners - it’s a place you can park up and throw open the back doors to beautiful views and sea air rolling over the hills. The drive up to Firle Beacon is beautiful and once you’ve checked out the views from the beacon itself you can drop down to pick up a path into the village - here you can find The Ram Inn - one of Sussex’s most popular pubs. Help all that delicious food go down by picking your way back up. Just a. note here - be respectful of villagers who live in Firle and park only on top of the Beacon or the pub car park if you’re using the pub and don’t park in the village.

Rottingdean

Rottingdean lies a few miles east of Brighton. You can take a Brighton Bike along the wonderful under cliff path (join from Brighton marina behind ASDA) or amble along from Brighton to this historic village. The Kipling gardens (named after Rudyard Kipling - once a resident of the village) are a treat for the senses and the High Street offers gorgeous shops and tea rooms. The beaches are also quieter and offer incredible textures.

Further resources.

For the ultimate in a food guide for the city try The Graphic Foodie and for the inside scoop on events and city goings on try Brighton on the Inside. For a fascinating read and to find some amazing secret spots in the city grab yourself a copy of Secret Brighton and I LOVE the Batsford Guide for South Down walks.

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