The Purbecks & The Jurassic Coast

The Historic Coast.

Dorset is my spiritual home. At the end of my teens I moved to Bournemouth and having grown up in the Midlands it was joyous to live near the sea. But I’d only just scratched the surface. The first time I took the chain ferry from Poole over to the Purbecks - well, I may as well have taken a 4 hour ferry ride. The road that lays ahead after emerging from the toll booth instills a sense of pure freedom. Since I moved to Brighton many moons ago I’ve made a point to get back to Dorset when I can and for the past 6 years have made it.

The textures of the coast inspire me beyond words and when we make the ceremonial swim at a Studland beach on the first night Monty is alight with pleasure at the sand and the little ice cream hut that chucks him dog bones.

The Purbecks is an affectionate name for the hills that live on the Isle of Purbeck - a peninsula spanning from Poole to a debated point somewhere near Wareham. Within it is the town of Swanage, Corfe Castle, Lulworth and it’s cove and the Studland beaches. There is so much more to be unearthed here though which I aim to help with within this guide.

Woodyhyde

Corfe | BH20 5HT

So where to stay? Well, for campers and van folk there are plenty of sites to choose from throughout the Purbecks. I have friends that have stayed at Tom’s Field and Eweleaze - both come highly recommended. My consistent is Woodyhyde. It might not be the boujiest of sites but the shower blocks are efficient, it’s well placed and there’s a steam train running through the middle of it - I love it. They also have a relaxed attitude on site and I have always had a wonderful experience.

The stars are epic at night and the sunrise and sunset are something pretty special on this site.

Nearby is Corfe Castle, Winspit and Swanage. Just watch the roads as you head left out of the site - I picked up a speeding ticket not even knowing I was speeding (I am usually a very careful driver).

Swanage Railway

Swanage | BH20 5DW

Don’t miss out on a ride on this lovely volunteer run railway while in the Purbecks. A trip on the steam train gives you a real slice of history and you feel like you have stepped right into a Wes Anderson film when you board the train. Take the train from Swanage to Corfe Castle and be sure to take a walk to the top for some epic views across The Purbecks. Make sure you have cash for the ride. See the timetable here.

Just a note. if you are staying at Woodyhyde you can walk across the fields to pick the train up from Harmans Cross.

Swanage

This lovely little market town might look like tacky gift shops galore but get out the car and take a wander round and you will really enjoy picking around Swanage. The artisan scene here is in abundance and Swanage Bay is a beaut. Check out Java Coffee House, nestled in the back streets, for nutritious treats and lunches.

For some beautiful natural treats inspired by the rugged coastline check out Yellow Gorse.

Durlston Country Park

Swanage | BH19 2JL

Just up a hill from Swanage is this rugged and wild walk along the Jurassic Coast. Take in some history as you arrive at the 320 acre country park and nature reserve and then you can head over fields and meadows taking in the views from this site of special interest for wildlife.

Studland Beaches

Ferry Road National Trust, BH19 3AQ

Ah, so many happy memories of these beaches. These sandy beaches and dunes spanning 4 miles will be reminiscent of childhood holidays and if you get some sun you might even feel abroad. Some of the beaches are managed by the National Trust and you can also find one of Britain’s favourite naturalist beaches along this bay. My favourite is South Beach - the little cafe is wonderful. For Watersports Knoll Beach is the one.

The Square & Compass & Winspit

Worth Matravers | BH19 3LF

An absolute favourite of mine is a walk from Worth Matravers down to Winspit Caves - park in the main Worth car park (not forgetting to contribute to upkeep of the car park), turn right down the road and turn right to do the short version, picking up the path in the centre of the village down by a row of terraced houses and just come back on yourself. Alternatively turn left at the pub and pick up the path through the fields to walk some more of the cast and come back along the path mentioned above after checking out the caves - we did this at sundown and it was perfect. This walk absolutely must be followed by a pint of ale in possibly the best pub in the UK - The Square & Compass - you will be charmed by the serving hatch, stone tables and the fossil museum.

Tyneham and Worbarrow Bay

Tyneham | BH20 5DE

A lot of the area around Lulworth is closed out of season in the week because it’s firing ranges for the MOD - the roads are open at the weekend so for this part of the coast make sure you strike it off on the weekend - you can check timings here. It’s a fascinating place to drive through in itself but our destination was Tyneham - a ghost village abandoned in World War II. Tyneham is a quiet, thoughtful place stuck in time with the intact school and church with original works and artefacts on display.

From Tyneham you can walk down to Worbarrow Bay - a dog friendly bay with crystal clear water and a big hill you can climb to get some incredible views over the Jurassic Coast. I loved observing how light falling on the coast revealed rich textures.

Lulworth Cove & Durdle Door

West Lulworth | BH20 5RQ

So the obvious places to visit are Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. They are beautiful but can get very congested in season and for me it takes the magic away - it’s a different case off season though.

When we went to Lulworth Cove this time round I really fancied a cream tea - when the guy serving us put the FROZEN scones in the microwave I knew it was a bad idea to eat here (don’t worry, we told them to forget our order). So instead I recommend finding a local bakery and taking your own on a little adventure further down the coast. If you do end up at Lulworth Cove you can make the walk over to Durdle Door which off season is a lovely thing to do.